I’ve visited Uruguay a number of times and I can’t help drawing comparisons with my own country Scotland , both relatively small , proud, inventive and with a strong spirit . Scotland was ecstatic at the weekend after a remarkable come back against Norway, scoring two goals in the last three minutes .
We could learn a lot from Uruguay in our push for independence .
Thanks so much for your comment and kind words, Remo! It's great to hear you've had a chance to visit Uruguay so many times, and I love your comparison of it to Scotland -- that definitely rings true for me 🙏
I actually have a bagpipe rendition of “Scotland The Brave” on my playlists for which my family thinks Im weird. I’m of Irish descent but I am fascinated about all of the UK. The history is remarkable and though a smallish corner of the world, it has had an outsized influence on culture across the globe.
I visited Uruguay to study the buildings of Eladio Dieste, the remarkable engineer, Have you visited any of them, The Church of Jesus Christ the worker ( Iglesia Parroquia de Cristo Obrero y Nuestra Señora de Lourdes) in Atlantida was listed as a world heritage site a couple of years ago, beautiful, stunning and technically very inventive.
I love that you went to Uruguay to study Dieste, Remo! It just so happens that my husband Jose is an architect, and so I've happily discovered Dieste through him :) We visited la Iglesia de Cristo Obrero a few years ago and even took the time to sketch it -- I just looked up my sketch of it on Instagram, if you'd like to see it:
I’ve been studying Dieste for many years and even wrote a book about him. I know the family very well. It’s great that you have visited the church. You should also visit San Pedro in Durazno, completely different and in many ways more stunning
I don’t have instagram but I will join to see your sketch.
Hi Candace!! I am Uruguayan and of course, lover of soccer National Team.. You couldn't describe better our feeling. It is exactly what you wrote. Amazing essay that I really enjoyed to read. Thank you for sharing about our small country. We all are very proud of our nation and feel united through soccer. You are very welcome to Uruguay, el paisito. 🇺🇾❤️
Hola Gimena! Thank you so much for taking the time to say hello, and for your wonderfully kind words -- I'm so honored to hear that you connected with this essay.
I love what you said about Uruguay feeling united through soccer. That was exactly what led me to begin writing this piece back in 2018 -- I just couldn't believe how the country came together during the World Cup, and how suddenly Montevideo was overtaken by Uruguayan flags everywhere :) It's really something special, and I'm so glad to have had the chance to experience it and discover my own passion for fútbol there.
Muchísimas gracias de nuevo y te mando un gran abrazo! 🤍
Ohh I love this recommendation, Joy -- that absolutely sounds like a must-read, and how perfect that Eduardo Galeano is Uruguayan as well. I'm not sure how I haven't read some of his books by now, thank you!
He is a wonderful writer. I first read his unique and insightful approach to Latin American history many years ago. I thoroughly enjoyed them, especially “Memories of Fire.”
I love hearing this, Beth! Thank you so much. Anytime there's a World Cup happening in Uruguay is an exciting time, be it for the national team or the Under-20 team, so I'm really glad to hear I was able to transmit some of that excitement here :)
I have no words to describe how this read made me feel. As an Uruguayan living abroad, this took me right back to our people, our culture, and to that unexplainable passion for futbol.
You are absolutely right when you say we are born knowing about the "Maracanazo", "everything is forgiven in the stadium", and we all could tell plenty of "stories of unlikely heroes and unexpected victories"
My sister sent me this essay and dared me to read it without crying... I failed miserably.
Thank you for taking me back home for a few minutes, thank you for your ki d words, and thank you for painting such beautiful picture for us.
Raul, thank you so much for your comment and kind words, they made my day to read.
Whenever I write about a culture -- especially a culture I love as much as Uruguay -- it is always such an honor to hear from people from that place that I've managed to capture something true and close to their heart.
I was so happy to hear this story resonated with you, and especially that it could bring a piece of home to you -- muchísimas gracias! 🙏
My sister and her husband retired to live in Uruguay for six months of every year. They ADORE Uruaguay. They only maintain the rest of the year here because their children and now an ever growing garden of grandkids are here. I don’t think they’d come back otherwise. From what I hear I don’t blame them. I am going to share your story with my sister who I think is stateside now with weddings coming up soon. They live (while there) in a tiny seaside village. I am very much looking forward to visiting them there sometime soon. My Spanish is pretty rusty and I was never really fluent but could muddle my way thru a bit of conversation. Anyway, loved your story!
Hi Maureen! Thanks so much for reading, and for sharing about your sister -- it's wonderful to hear she's found such a sense of home in Uruguay. I hope you'll have a chance to visit her there one day soon, it's a beautiful (and sometimes-overlooked) part of the world 🤍
Jun 13, 2023·edited Jun 14, 2023Liked by Candace Rose Rardon
You keep doing it, Candace. You keep reminding me of the good things I experienced during my work travels and for that I am grateful. I hope you’ll indulge me with the following response to your wonderful story.
Ah, futbol! For years, I enjoyed watching African kids playing the game with homemade rag balls on red dust fields. It was always a spontaneous thing. I would be driving through a rural area and a group of kids would be playing their hearts out for the pure joy of it. And when I stopped to watch, it turned into an international event. The little kids would gather around me, some staring in wonder at the strange being that was me, but then the focus always returned to the game.
I never watched a professional game until I made a serendipitous work trip to Bolivia that coincided with a matchup between the Bolivian national team and Brazil, the home of “Beautiful Futbol!” Our chief of party in Bolivia was a young Brazilian guy who made sure we had tickets and would sit among the local Brazilian expats.
Game night and La Paz was alive. The stadium was packed. According to my seat mates, Brazil had already won just by showing up. When the teams met on the field and my Brazilians started cheering, I noticed dark glares from the locals. I asked my Brazilian colleague what his friends were shouting. “It is best if I don’t repeat it,” he replied. So I sat there calculating my odds of survival from the glaring thousands. Not good.
The home team had a definite advantage. The altitude at La Paz is about 12,500’ above sea level, and the Brazilian team probably trains at less than 500’. The Brazilians were tall and lean; the Bolivians were shorter, more barrel chested, and well adapted to the altitude.
The game did not go well for the Brazilians from the start. As they gasped for oxygen, the Bolivian team scored the first goal and the stadium erupted, while five thousand glares were cast in our direction. When the Bolivians soon scored a second goal, my host suggested we leave early to avoid the crowds.
As we walked out of the stadium, we heard the crowd erupt a third time. It was not a good night to be a Team Brazil fan. And I, in my heart of hearts, felt so happy for Bolivia.
Switter, thanks so much for taking the time to share this story -- I just love it, and as soon as you mentioned where the game was taking place, I had a feeling what you were about to share :) Whenever Uruguay has to play Bolivia in La Paz, we're always nervous as well about how they'll do there, so I love that even Brazil's team weren't a match for the altitude!
Great storytelling! Yes, even in Canada, there are still die-hard futbol fans who set up projectors in the office/workplace and keep up to date on the game progress.
High school was my first experience. A group of students had organized to keep the games playing in the library.
My current employer is from the UK and he'll get up at 3am to watch a match on tv.
I like how you noted that it shows the priority: futbol comes first over work. It's a good reminder that there is more to life than work <3
Thank you so much for reading, Amanda, and for sharing all these great stories! I love how they all show just how universal the love of fútbol is, it has to be my favorite thing about the sport :)
Really interesting and enjoyable essay
I’ve visited Uruguay a number of times and I can’t help drawing comparisons with my own country Scotland , both relatively small , proud, inventive and with a strong spirit . Scotland was ecstatic at the weekend after a remarkable come back against Norway, scoring two goals in the last three minutes .
We could learn a lot from Uruguay in our push for independence .
Remo pedreschi
Thanks so much for your comment and kind words, Remo! It's great to hear you've had a chance to visit Uruguay so many times, and I love your comparison of it to Scotland -- that definitely rings true for me 🙏
I actually have a bagpipe rendition of “Scotland The Brave” on my playlists for which my family thinks Im weird. I’m of Irish descent but I am fascinated about all of the UK. The history is remarkable and though a smallish corner of the world, it has had an outsized influence on culture across the globe.
Oh this (the words and the pictures) is just beautiful!
Thank you, Andrew! I'm so glad you enjoyed it 🙏
I visited Uruguay to study the buildings of Eladio Dieste, the remarkable engineer, Have you visited any of them, The Church of Jesus Christ the worker ( Iglesia Parroquia de Cristo Obrero y Nuestra Señora de Lourdes) in Atlantida was listed as a world heritage site a couple of years ago, beautiful, stunning and technically very inventive.
I love that you went to Uruguay to study Dieste, Remo! It just so happens that my husband Jose is an architect, and so I've happily discovered Dieste through him :) We visited la Iglesia de Cristo Obrero a few years ago and even took the time to sketch it -- I just looked up my sketch of it on Instagram, if you'd like to see it:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BewOON9FAxj/
I’ve been studying Dieste for many years and even wrote a book about him. I know the family very well. It’s great that you have visited the church. You should also visit San Pedro in Durazno, completely different and in many ways more stunning
I don’t have instagram but I will join to see your sketch.
Struggled to get onto instagram but my daughter sorted it. Beautiful drawing
Hi Candace!! I am Uruguayan and of course, lover of soccer National Team.. You couldn't describe better our feeling. It is exactly what you wrote. Amazing essay that I really enjoyed to read. Thank you for sharing about our small country. We all are very proud of our nation and feel united through soccer. You are very welcome to Uruguay, el paisito. 🇺🇾❤️
Hola Gimena! Thank you so much for taking the time to say hello, and for your wonderfully kind words -- I'm so honored to hear that you connected with this essay.
I love what you said about Uruguay feeling united through soccer. That was exactly what led me to begin writing this piece back in 2018 -- I just couldn't believe how the country came together during the World Cup, and how suddenly Montevideo was overtaken by Uruguayan flags everywhere :) It's really something special, and I'm so glad to have had the chance to experience it and discover my own passion for fútbol there.
Muchísimas gracias de nuevo y te mando un gran abrazo! 🤍
Otro gran abrazo!! 🥰
I encourage you to read Eduardo Galeano's "Football (Soccer)in Sun and Shadow." (El fútbol a sol y sombra) A brilliant read and a definite eye-opener.
Ohh I love this recommendation, Joy -- that absolutely sounds like a must-read, and how perfect that Eduardo Galeano is Uruguayan as well. I'm not sure how I haven't read some of his books by now, thank you!
He is a wonderful writer. I first read his unique and insightful approach to Latin American history many years ago. I thoroughly enjoyed them, especially “Memories of Fire.”
I love all your work, but this one made me particularly happy. I could feel the excitement!
You are the best
I love hearing this, Beth! Thank you so much. Anytime there's a World Cup happening in Uruguay is an exciting time, be it for the national team or the Under-20 team, so I'm really glad to hear I was able to transmit some of that excitement here :)
I have no words to describe how this read made me feel. As an Uruguayan living abroad, this took me right back to our people, our culture, and to that unexplainable passion for futbol.
You are absolutely right when you say we are born knowing about the "Maracanazo", "everything is forgiven in the stadium", and we all could tell plenty of "stories of unlikely heroes and unexpected victories"
My sister sent me this essay and dared me to read it without crying... I failed miserably.
Thank you for taking me back home for a few minutes, thank you for your ki d words, and thank you for painting such beautiful picture for us.
Raul, thank you so much for your comment and kind words, they made my day to read.
Whenever I write about a culture -- especially a culture I love as much as Uruguay -- it is always such an honor to hear from people from that place that I've managed to capture something true and close to their heart.
I was so happy to hear this story resonated with you, and especially that it could bring a piece of home to you -- muchísimas gracias! 🙏
My sister and her husband retired to live in Uruguay for six months of every year. They ADORE Uruaguay. They only maintain the rest of the year here because their children and now an ever growing garden of grandkids are here. I don’t think they’d come back otherwise. From what I hear I don’t blame them. I am going to share your story with my sister who I think is stateside now with weddings coming up soon. They live (while there) in a tiny seaside village. I am very much looking forward to visiting them there sometime soon. My Spanish is pretty rusty and I was never really fluent but could muddle my way thru a bit of conversation. Anyway, loved your story!
Hi Maureen! Thanks so much for reading, and for sharing about your sister -- it's wonderful to hear she's found such a sense of home in Uruguay. I hope you'll have a chance to visit her there one day soon, it's a beautiful (and sometimes-overlooked) part of the world 🤍
"everything is forgiven in the stadium" words to live by!!!
who ARE these guys? one must ponder when stumbling on great work like this
Yes! That phrase has always stuck with me, ever since my first week in Uruguay -- it's a good one :)
I like the 4 food groups best. Candace have you heard a song called Dandelion Seeds by July? Pops into my head as soon as I see your masthead.
What a lovely (and fitting!) song, Donald -- I hadn't come across it before, so thank you for introducing me to it.
Uruguay noma! Beautiful article about the beautiful game
Thanks so much, Anthony!
You keep doing it, Candace. You keep reminding me of the good things I experienced during my work travels and for that I am grateful. I hope you’ll indulge me with the following response to your wonderful story.
Ah, futbol! For years, I enjoyed watching African kids playing the game with homemade rag balls on red dust fields. It was always a spontaneous thing. I would be driving through a rural area and a group of kids would be playing their hearts out for the pure joy of it. And when I stopped to watch, it turned into an international event. The little kids would gather around me, some staring in wonder at the strange being that was me, but then the focus always returned to the game.
I never watched a professional game until I made a serendipitous work trip to Bolivia that coincided with a matchup between the Bolivian national team and Brazil, the home of “Beautiful Futbol!” Our chief of party in Bolivia was a young Brazilian guy who made sure we had tickets and would sit among the local Brazilian expats.
Game night and La Paz was alive. The stadium was packed. According to my seat mates, Brazil had already won just by showing up. When the teams met on the field and my Brazilians started cheering, I noticed dark glares from the locals. I asked my Brazilian colleague what his friends were shouting. “It is best if I don’t repeat it,” he replied. So I sat there calculating my odds of survival from the glaring thousands. Not good.
The home team had a definite advantage. The altitude at La Paz is about 12,500’ above sea level, and the Brazilian team probably trains at less than 500’. The Brazilians were tall and lean; the Bolivians were shorter, more barrel chested, and well adapted to the altitude.
The game did not go well for the Brazilians from the start. As they gasped for oxygen, the Bolivian team scored the first goal and the stadium erupted, while five thousand glares were cast in our direction. When the Bolivians soon scored a second goal, my host suggested we leave early to avoid the crowds.
As we walked out of the stadium, we heard the crowd erupt a third time. It was not a good night to be a Team Brazil fan. And I, in my heart of hearts, felt so happy for Bolivia.
Switter, thanks so much for taking the time to share this story -- I just love it, and as soon as you mentioned where the game was taking place, I had a feeling what you were about to share :) Whenever Uruguay has to play Bolivia in La Paz, we're always nervous as well about how they'll do there, so I love that even Brazil's team weren't a match for the altitude!
I always cheer for the underdogs, God bless ‘em!
Great storytelling! Yes, even in Canada, there are still die-hard futbol fans who set up projectors in the office/workplace and keep up to date on the game progress.
High school was my first experience. A group of students had organized to keep the games playing in the library.
My current employer is from the UK and he'll get up at 3am to watch a match on tv.
I like how you noted that it shows the priority: futbol comes first over work. It's a good reminder that there is more to life than work <3
Thank you so much for reading, Amanda, and for sharing all these great stories! I love how they all show just how universal the love of fútbol is, it has to be my favorite thing about the sport :)